Curious about how Hong Kong had changed since my last trip in 1985 as a result of the Chinese government’s takeover in 1997, I landed at the newly built super modern (relocated to Lantau Island) airport to find the city bustling and unaffected economically by the change in government. Mostly everyone I spoke with from hotel proprietors, businessmen and women to shopkeepers agreed that politically not much has changed. All did agree however, the biggest change was how quickly main land China usurped Hong Kong’s position as the fastest growing economy in the region. Still, skyscraper-building sites were everywhere to be seen on Hong Kong and Kowloon Islands.
From now until 2003 Hong Kong is celebrating it’s living fusion of East and West culture, lifestyles and traditions offering promotions on everything from clothing, jewelry, antiques and meals plus tempting attractions aimed at tourists.
Sites & Excursions
Hong Kong is divided into islands, Kowloon, Hong Kong, New Territories and Lantau.
Star Ferry from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island
No trip would be complete without a ferry ride across Kowloon to Hong Kong on the Star Ferry. Leaving from in front of the Peninsula Hotel it takes less than ten minutes yet offers a skyline view to compete with Manhattan’s. Hong Kong is at once more sultry and futuristic.
Peak Tram Vista Point
The Peak tram has to be the world’s only tram climbing a dizzying 180 angle through mountains straight upward past skyscrapers until reaching the top of Hong Kong Island. If you are acrophobic then skip the visit.
Unfortunately for Hong Kong residents and tourists alike the famed Peak Café, down the road from the Peak Tram exit and overlooking Kowloon, set idyllically in a lush roof garden is closed. Established in 1941 the new Chinese government bought the lease and has shut down this gem. Perhaps by the time you visit Hong Kong it will have been reopened under new management? Otherwise expect to find yet another glass and concrete projectile.
Hong Kong Dolphinwatch
The first organization dedicated to preserving the endangered Chinese white dolphin (Indo-Pacific Humpback dolphins) and finless porpoise that currently number around 250 in the Hong Kong waters and 1,000 in the entire Pearl River delta. You can take a half-day boat journey north of Lantau island to watch these intelligent creatures bob up and down in the sewage strewn polluted waters with less-than-stringent government controls and too much boat traffic. Most females poison their firstborns with toxic milk due to DDT’s and PCB’s (used in the electronics industry) found in these filthy waters.
Take the boat tour and your fee is donated to the organization or better yet, make an additional contribution directly. E-mail: dolphins@hk.super.net for schedules and information. We were fortunate enough to glimpse four lovely long beaked pink dolphins.
Dining
Felix at the Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Kowloon
Tel: (852) 2315-3188, mailto:dining.pen@peninsula.com Opened roughly five years ago to critical acclaim, this Philippe Starck wonder is one of the world’s finest dining rooms overlooking an unbeatable harbor views of Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. The service as to be expected was impeccable and the food “to-die-for” – Pacific Rim cuisine. An eclectic mix of Chinese, Anglo, American, Japanese and European clientele dressed to the nines: Issey Miyake, Armani, Anna Sui and Jean-Paul Gaultier casually gathered at the Wine Bar prior to tucking into Chef Nagao’s exquisite cuisine. The average cost of a meal is HK$450.00 per person excluding wine.
Spring Moon Chinese Restaurant at the Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Kowloon.Tel: (852) 2315-3160, http://www.peninsula.com or mailto:dining.pen@peninsula.com. This Cantonese replica of how the restaurant may have been designed in 1928 (with Frank Lloyd Wright highlights) can best be savored at lunchtime for it’s divine Dim Sum. An example of our tasting plates included steamed scallop & water chestnut dumplings with bird’s nest, bean curd rolls with vegetables, steamed shrimp and bamboo shoot dumplings, green chives and shrimp dumplings. Now we know where the Catalonians got their ‘tapas’ from. From the Portuguese who landed on Macao Island imitating the Cantonese tradition of over 5,000 years.
A little story on teas. Installed at the restaurant is a full-blown tea master working at who invited us to sample a few while learning how to brew each type of tea. Basically, in China there are five types of teas; green, oolong, white, pu er-style and black.
Luk Yu Tea House at 24-26 Stanley Street, Centre district.Tel: 2523-5464 or 2523-5463, is an institution known for it’s clientele as much as for it’s interior – an westernized art nouveau interpretation of a Chinese tea house – and it’s delectable dim sum lunches and huge variety of teas. Ask for John the proprietor for a table otherwise you’ll need to reserve in advance as they are fully booked seven days a week.
For native New Yorkers like myself in search of a great knish, bagel or hot corned beef sandwich the place to go is Great Eagle Hotel’s Main Street Deli in Tsim Sha Tsui. Not to forget pastrami on rye!
Shopping
Hong Kong is not as inexpensive as it used to be ten years ago. Then it was the world’s shopping mecca. You can still find excellent buys in jewelry such as pearls, jade and precious stones, electronics and of course, men’s and women’s clothing.
Before arriving, visit http://www.hongkong-is-it.com/ to find out about cultural activities in each of the 18 districts and www.DiscoverHongKong.com to get a VIP discount card enabling you to 10% or more discounts on all purchases.
Part of the Hong Kong tourist board affiliation, the Quality Tourism Services is a good site for approved shops and restaurants meeting the international standards of excellence http://www.qtshk.com/hk/qts/eng/main/index.html
Salisbury Road
On the Kowloon side a plethora of antique shops, Chinese traditional crafts and teas, clothing and house wares can be found on this chock-o-block shopping street. Don’t miss it.
Shanghai Tang, http://www.shanghaitang.com featuring only silks is a must-see/buy located either at the Pedder Building on Pedder Street or Tsim Sha Tsui. If you like me are desperate for vivid colors, tie string trousers and Chinese style dinner jackets don’t wait. Visit Shanghai Tang in London at 6 Sloane Street or at Selfridges or in New York at 714 Madison Avenue.
Harbour City & Times Square Mall is located at the tip of Kowloon Peninsula and is the largest of several indoor malls featuring more than 700 shops and a multi-cinema complex. Visit http://www.harbourcity.com.hk and http://www.timessquare.com.hk to go bezerk.
Hotel
There’s only one hotel worth mentioning to me in Hong Kong and that’s the legendary Grand Hotel, The Peninsula Hong Kong Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Tel: (852) 2920 2888. Fax: (852) 2722 4170, http://www.peninsula.com or mailto:pen@peninsula.com for reservations. In Europe call Germany (49) 69 603 2888 and toll free only in France at 0800 90 89 93. In the UK call (44) 171-730 0993 for information.
In such a competitive environment as Hong Kong with hotels offering the very best in luxury service, rooms, amenities, food and activities The Peninsula has been consecutively voted the BEST hotel for years. We were picked up in a Rolls Royce from Hong Kong International Airport, one amongst the hotel’s fleet. The suite we had overlooked the Kowloon Harbor and ripped my socks off with it’s impressive yet unobtrusive technology. Bedside panels control lighting, radio, TV, CD, air-conditioning and the curtains. Smart lighting allows the guest to define the ambience they want including dimming. A shoe box signals the attendant when shoes are ready to be shined and cleaned. Waterproof bath panels allow for watching TV, listening to music or making a hands-free phone call. Private fax machines give each guest their own number and of course sockets for computers – each room using the ISDN standard. We spent some time at the hotel’s luxurious spa. An amply sized outdoor roof terrace allows for sunbathing, an indoor pool 18cm long sits under a retractable glass roof and gym for complete body renewal. In addition, you can take your pick of private classes in all types of interesting subjects from Feng Shui to Chinese cooking at the Peninsula Academy.
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