Besides being a Unesco site, Hydra, a tiny island 35 nautical miles from Athens in the Argosaronic gulf must be one of the last places on earth where there is no public transportation. No cars, trucks, buses, nor bicycles pollute this island of 3,000 human inhabitants and thousands of cats, although rumor has it that the cats are being dealt with. A ha!.
It feels like when the earth was green and pure and I imagine Thor Heyerdahl felt exactly the same in 1938 when he first went “native” on the Polynesian island of Fatu-Hiva.
You either walk or hire a donkey or mule.
When you arrive by hydrofoil from the main port at Piraeus via Flying Dolphin (finally a website to book your tickets) http://www.dolphins.gr you can jump on the nearest donkey or call in advance a very reliable donkey cell-phone service. Tassoulis (his name) doesn’t speak English so be prepared to show him in Cyrillic the name of your hotel or have a Greek friend speak directly with him. 30 is the country code for Greece and 298(0) is the code for Hydra. His number is 0944-150-666. Cost per donkey is 10 euro. Your luggage will cost extra. If anyone else charges more beware.
A Little History
The opening of the renovated Historical Archives - Museum of Hydra located on the port displays items from the 18th century shipping magnates and skippers who were fierce warriors in protecting Hydra. We can see the relics of a great shipping nation. By 1800, Hydra was known as “small England”. In the battle of independence against the Turks in 1821, Hydra had 130 battle ships. If you want an emotionally convincing tour of the museum in English please ask for Takis, a master historian whose stories place you at the scene of yesteryear. Takis is as well an artist of the highest caliber. He produces Greek icons made from Hydra’s natural elements of porcelain and crystalline stone. The technique he employs was used by artisans hundreds of years ago. Natural varnishes and paints without chemicals add to the haunting beauty and originality of his works. Tobazi Street at the mouth of the port is where you can find him next to Vassilis Tours and the islands first internet cafe, Flamingo.
While I was in Hydra I attended a stunning exhibit made by a Greek couple who create fantasy mosaics of modern and ancient designs.
Cultural & Religious Event
The Cinema Club organization of Hydra is run by Lakis. Lakis is an artistic sort who also owns a fashion, jewelry and gourmet-food shop named Hellenic Nature, Economu Street 4. For more information email lakisch@otenet.gr for product information. He can be found on the port at Paralia, 18040 Hydra. Tel 2980- 53105, fax: 2980-53622.
In July and August a very special treat organized by the Cinema club are weekend trips - Friday and Saturday evenings to see Greek drama performed live at Epidareus. It is the largest amphitheater of the ancient world seating 14,000 and built in 400 B.C. Located on the mainland in Peloponnese and close to Nafpleon city, tours of 25 leave Hydra at 16:30 by water taxi to the mainland where upon they hop onto an air-conditioned bus to a village near the theater where a light dinner is served. Tragedies by Sophocles, Euripides and Echkilus and comedies by Aristophanes are performed in Greek. Someone from the Cinema Club offers an English explanation of the show during the bus tour. The shows begin around 21:00 finishing at 23:00. Cost of the trip not including dinner is 18,000 drachmas per person.
Lakis also organizes a cinema retrospective mid-September; schedule this year on the 15-20th featuring 2 films per actor/actress or director of a protagonist nature such as Victorio Gasman (Italian), Walter Mattheau (American) and a Greek comedian. There is also a workshop for children who produce their own shadow puppets, Greek Karagiozi (shadow puppets) and seminars.
August 15th is one of the most important religious holidays in Greece and the Orthodox world. The Death of the Virgin Mary. Mass is held at churches all over Greece. The townsfolk celebrate it first with a walk about the whole village by visiting most of the churches.
Returning an hour or so later to the church on the port square the church officials serve food (bread) and drinks. Flowers and sage are strewn across the church floors and people dance under the sage awning. In other words a veritable feast and fiesta.
Monasteries
There are hundreds of private monasteries on Hydra, which are not open to the public. If you ask the concierge at your hotel to get you keys to a small church they might accommodate you. It all depends on whom they know. The main monastery at the Port is open and has a lovely white and blue courtyard. You can also hire a donkey to visit the Monastery perched on top of the hill near Miramare beach. It is run by two nuns however the younger of the twosome, Pelagia acts as hostess to all who visit and leave a small token of their appreciation. She is piety and love epitomized, offering her surroundings to those who wish to partake in quiet meditations or in admiration of the architecture that was renovated by her family at their own cost! The monks and church do not recognize Pelagia as an “official nun” so she is shunned into her lonely existence surviving on the donations of strangers.
I was served a dainty plate of ouzo, Greek coffee, sweet almond cookies; hard candies and a jellied dish of apricots so scrumptious I thought of conversion. I hired the donkey man Tassoulis who is cordial to a fault in the way authentic people are, so get someone to make that call for you. A round-trip will take roughly three hours and cost is roughly 50-60 euro.
Mystical Aspects
Hydra has magic powers. The rocks are made of crystals and one can climb high into the hills and with a little luck extract raw crystals from the loose red earth. Many artists live here and attest to the energy and vibrations emanating from this island. I noticed symbols in the form of animals, stones, plants and coincidences, which are not coincidental at all. If you attune to this energy you will be able to suddenly find repeated symbols.
For example, the day I arrived I was walking towards one of the three beaches, Vlikos along a path in the mountain. I was surrounded by the many private Orthodox churches (closed to the public), donkeys, horses and goats grazing in the parched fields. The white-pinkish stones rested lazily akimbo blocking parts of the path so I sidestepped the rocks when out of nowhere a swarm of over fifty butterflies danced before my eyes. That very morning I was turning over American Native animal medicine cards and the spirit guide card for me was what else, butterfly signifying “transformation”.
Takis, the artist who works at the Hydra museum, with his own mystical transmission is tuned into the crystals and rock materials of the island. His iconographic artwork is produced using stone or ceramics found on the island. His technique dates back several hundred years - using only ecologically and pure tints, lacquers and paints he produces icons by collaging paper images onto the pure surfaces. The top glaze is rich in glitter or gold and the total effect is a museum-like quality piece of art. He can be reached at either 2980-54192 or 093-2690852. You’ll need to phone him so he can show you his work personally.
Beaches
Vlikos, Camini and Miramare is the main beach in Hydra. You can walk to Camini and Vlikos or take a water taxi for 350 drachmas one way. To get to Miramare only the true-blue hikers would walk it. These are pebble beaches so it is advised to wear plastic shoes in the glittering deep blue Aegean waters since walking on the rocks will rock your boat. At each beach one finds good restaurants and at Vlikos and Miramare there are bungalows, umbrellas and lounge chairs for hire. Cost is 7.50 - 8 euros per chair. There are several smaller beaches, quite remote which can be reached by water taxi for a price of over 10 euros. And you can take a water taxi to the mainland across the sea for 35 euros. There you will find sandy coves and beaches.
One can also walk around the port and jump off the rocks into the sea from the several outposts including Hydretta and Avleki. The advantage is that you needn’t pay for a water taxi or lounge chair and the distance is a mere 5 to 10 minutes and you have the Sunset sunken restaurant which serves the best club sandwiches on Hydra. Its location is right before you turn the corner and climb a few more rocks to Hydretta. The disadvantage is that one sits on concrete or on dangerously slippery rocks.
Walking from the port to Camini is a ten-minute stretch, not to be missed after nine o’clock when the stars are bursting in the sky. There are strategically placed benches for stargazing along the path.
Restaurants and Nightlife
This is a relatively quiet island. If you want dance scenes, young and loud and all night long nightlife go to Mykonos, Santorini, Rhodes or any island in the Cyclades. Disco Heaven is a good dance spot on the island and the Pirate Bar is open until 9:00 in the morning when the diehards (many of them foreign) stumble out for breakfast elsewhere. Amalour offers live music, Greek, Jazz, Soul and European most evenings and is a relaxing place for drinks. Dinner in Greece begins between 10:00pm and 11:00 so if you insist on eating earlier you will probably be sitting with foreigners. Hydronetta is a wonderful spot to watch the sunset whilst sipping on original cocktails such as Peach Daiquiri as new age music drifts in and out of your consciousness. Tel: 2980-54160. Arrive before 19:45 to get a great seat outside otherwise you’ll be squashed and squinting to see the red-hot fireball of sun.
The restaurants I like best are Leonidis, which is the oldest surviving taverna on Hydra in the Kala Pigadia neighborhood and you, need to reserve. Call: 2980-53097, Porfyra for seafood, Christina’s and Mezethopoleon compete for the best appetizers and freshly grilled fish or baked dishes. At Nikos Taverna the spicy garlic feta cheese is the best on the island. At Douskos you can hear live music every evening however there are those who swear the food is awful. If you stick with mousaka or grilled fish and simple veggies they aren’t that terrible. The Veranda is perched above the city and is entirely romantic.
Bratsera offers the finest cuisine, Italian and Greek and has a swimming pool in the middle of the outdoor restaurant. Their hotel is first class and great for lovers and honeymooners. My favorite discoveries in the culinary department include: yellow crushed peas with red onion, olive oil and pepper, fried zucchini strips, cold beet salad with a delectable garlic sauce salsa.
Jewelry and Handicrafts, Clothing and Gifts
Hand-made Greek silver and gold jewelry is some of the finest and most understated in the world. From ultra-modern and artistic to the more traditional Byzantine patterns you can find many shops on Hydra as well as in Athens. My particular choice on Hydra is Elena Votsi Jewellry on Ikonomou Street. Email: votsi@usa.net. Elena is now selling in selected European locations outside of Greece.
For chimes, mermaids, good quality clothing (dressy and dress down) visit Soso Koukoudaki on the port direction Hydronetta. Tel: 2980-53190. Tell her Elise sent you, you may get a discount? At the port next door to the supermarket is another trinket and shoe-sandal shop owned by Soso’s twin sister Matina Vlachopoulou. Tel: 2980-52995.
Simple Greek for Dumbbells
You’ll need a few words to get by if only because it’s more polite and the Greeks are extremely polite people. Don’t confuse that with their exuberance once you open a conversation with them. You’ll find yourself discussing everything from politics to drama to metaphysics and the local scene.
Kalimera: Good morning
Kalispera: Good evening
Kalinichta: Good night
Tikanis: How’s everything
Yasu: Hi and Bye
Poly kala: Please
Efkaristou: You’re welcome
Kala: Fine
Hotel Information
This was my third trip to Hydra and each time I stayed at the wonderfully located Nefli Hotel owned by the inimitable Lily Leonitidi, a former journalist and raconteur to boot. Tel: 2980-53297 or fax: 2980-52957. Lily offers breakfast at the charming terrace or on your own veranda and the rooms are done tastefully - simple and warmly decorated. My favorite room is number 12 as it is for so many others so book early if you want the best view. It’s an athletic climb from the port for those not used to steps yet is only ten minutes away and totally worth the view, the peace and quiet and the company of a vivid woman. The hotel is now for sale! Check out here for the specifications!
For hotels, pensions, rooms, apartments, tourist information and exchange use Vassilis Tours. Ask for George. Tel: 30- 2980-54190 or fax: 2980-54191. Or send George an email at xiotis@aig.forthnet.gr. I would recommend calling George directly and also taking at look at the website of Ana Kamai, a Greek American living in Athens, www.villasofgreece.com Ana rents out houses on the island to meet any or all of your special accommodation needs.
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